Ole Ellekrog gives a local’s tour through his adopted city……
Located just four and a half hours south of Berlin by train—a beautiful journey that passes alongside the Elbe and ‘Saxony Swiss’ mountains that straddle the Germany/Czech border—Prague is one of Europe’s most refined and elegant capital cities.
Its fascinating history is revealed in its diverse architecture: throughout the narrow streets of the Old Town, gothic buildings with soaring spires and imposing window panes are reminiscent of Dracula and other classic horror novels, while grandiose tenements with elaborate statues in the neighbourhoods of Vinohrady, Žižkov and Holešovice hark back to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and the outer suburbs boast the grey concrete prefabs of communist years—not unlike roaming around former East Berlin.
But this is all recent history for a city that has held its own since the fifth Century AD, and which became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire in the 1300s, ruling over large parts of Central Europe. Charles IV began work on the famous Charles Bridge in 1357 along with many of the city’s other iconic landmarks, but he also established Charles University—only the third university in Europe, and the first to teach in German.
An air of intellectualism can still be felt in the city today. Strolling through Prague, you will often notice the words knihu and divadlo—‘books’ and ‘theatre’. From small second-hand bookstores in hidden alleys to the splendour of the National Theatre on the riverbank, Prague is a city full of culture, with famous writers like Franz Kafka and Milan Kundera, and former president (and internationally recognised playwright) Vaclav Havel representing only the tip of the iceberg.
Like any city rich in culture, history and beauty, Prague welcomes lots of tourists—around eight million a year in fact; in 2019, pre-pandemic Prague was the sixth most visited city in Europe, ahead of Amsterdam and Barcelona. The crowds are certainly visible in the city, but they tend to stick to specific areas: the two-kilometre walk from the famous astronomical clock, across the Charles Bridge and up to Prague Castle is a pilgrimage of sorts for short-term visitors, full of tourist traps and photographing crowds; do by all means join them—the scenery is worth the commotion—but be careful how you spend your money.
There are also some less obvious sights along the way, such as the Skautský Institut (the Scout Institute), which is hidden in plain sight right next to the astronomical clock. A type of cultural centre run by a scout’s organisation, it’s open to everyone and everything; inside the anonymous doorway and up the stairs, you won’t find teams of eager Czech scouts running around, but rather a mix of locals and expats enjoying the reasonably priced draft beer, the relaxed atmosphere and the opportunities to study.
On the other side of Charles Bridge, enjoy a pause before heading uphill. This corner of Mala Strana (‘Little Town’), with its charming canal and tangled alleys is incredibly cute and ripe for exploration. When you’re done roaming around (or before), grab coffee and cake or a healthy lunch at the family-run Cukr Kava Limonada, or treat yourself to a glass of local vino at